Pyeongando Jokbal-jip is widely seen as the shop where Jangchung-dong’s famous jokbal alley began. It opened in 1961 as a bindaetteok (mung bean pancake) house run by Lee Nam-yong, a refugee from Pyeongan Province, and her sister-in-law Lee Kyung-soon later came to work there. Lee Kyung-soon had crossed into the South in 1947 at age twelve. Cheap pancakes and soju drew crowds, but the profit margins were thin. When regulars asked for something new, the shop began boiling pig’s feet in the late 1960s. The recipe is simple: soy sauce, ginger, scallion and onion. The secret is the broth. Each day’s batch starts with the previous day’s leftover stock, so the pot has been carried forward for more than forty years. As other shops on the street began calling themselves the original, the restaurant put up a sign naming itself “the original of the originals.”